Finally, some fibre all spun up and ready to use :)

I bought this fibre at the Old Bus Depot Markets on Wool Day a few months ago. Isn't it GORGEOUS?!?!?


So I spun it up with lots of air, so that it can be a nice soft beannie for the new Monkey. I then plied (my first ever ply!) it with some rayon machine embroidery thread in a beautiful purple, making it look like this

Nice! I have spun up a second bobbin of this opaly merino roving, and plied most of it. It is on the niddy noddy as I type, and the rest of the bobbin will be plied hopefully tonight. Then on the niddy noddy, in for a wash, a dry and then to crochet a little Monkey hat. Awwww!

I thought that I understood a fair bit about the monkeys. Seems I still have a lot to learn... Monkey 2 drew a picture of her innards about a year ago, it had a stomach for dinner and a much bigger stomach for dessert. Ok, makes sense.

But today we had this conversation
me - pooh what a stink, who farted?
everyone else - no, not me
me - well someone did, this house reeks
Monkey 2 - is it Saturday or Sunday?
me - it is Saturday
Monkey 2 - well, I never fart on Saturday, so it couldn't have been me.

who knew?

I am going to post my dyeing technique since I have typed it out a few times and can never find it when I need it to send to someone who asks. So here goes

How Kate Dyes Stuff

What I use

• fibre reactive dye (procion or drimarene K)
• pool salt (non iodised)
  
• soda ash (for making pool water alkaline)
• synthrapol (a heavy duty detergent)
  
• kitchen digital scales
• more accurate digital scales (I got mine off ebay, I think that they were marketed for measuring small amounts of drugs, but they weigh dye nicely)
• plastic spoons
• dust mask
• rubber gloves
• some old plastic jars that never ever get used for anything else
• some old pantyhose (knee highs are great for this)
• a bucket
  
• my wonderful bought-especially-for-the-purpose twin tub washing machine
• far too much water in this drought afflicted nation

How I Dye Stuff

1. Weigh the dry stuff* to be dyed, and write the weight in grams.
2. If the stuff hasn't already been washed, then put it into the wash to get the sizing out of the fabric, and any marks or stains.
3. Sit down and do some maths. Work out what colour the stuff is to turn out like, and how dark I want it. For a pastel sorta colour, I would use about 1 or 2% of the weight of the stuff in dye. So, if there was 1kg of stuff, then I would use 10 or 20 grams of dye. For a mid colour, I would use about 6% to 8% of dry weight of stuff, and for a darker colour I would use lots more. So work out how heavy the stuff was dry, and work out what percentage of dye you want to use, and then actually how much dye that is. If you ever think you might like to repeat this colour or do any more dyeing, you might like to write your maths down and keep it somewhere safe that you can find it again.
4. Now for the Doing :) I retire to the bathroom where the twin tub washer is. Don gloves and dust mask. Collect all above gear.
5. I add about 20 litres of warm water to the washer. Add about 1 kg of salt. Agitate it for a few minutes to dissolve the salt. Then put the stuff in the water and agitate it a bit more to get the stuff all nice and wet.
6. While the salt is dissolving and the stuff getting wet, I measure the dye into a dry clean plastic container that will be used for nothing else. When the dye is all measured accurately, I put some warm to hot water in and stir it up with a plastic spoon. It is a real bugger and messes up a dye job to have blobs of undissolved dye. Then stretch a knee high pantyhose over the top of the jar, and tip it into the washer. The stocking catches any lumps, and then tip some more warm/hot water back into the jar through the stocking, then swish it around a bit, then tip it into the washer. Repeat till you aren't getting any dye goobers stuck in the stocking.
7. Set the washer to agitate for about 15-20 minutes. If you are using a top loading washing machine you have to be careful that your dye doesn't go down the drain. If you are using a twin tub you don't have to worry about that at all. It just sits there and does as it is told until you tell it something else. Sweet!
8. If your stuff is long and tangly, stop the agitation every now and again, and wearing gloves, untangle the stuff, then agitate again.
9. If you aren't using a machine at all, but hand dyeing in a plastic tub or the bath or the laundry tub, then make sure that the dye gets into all the seams and bits of the stuff. This is the "get the dye into the fabric" part of the process.
10. Once the dye is well into all the bits of the fabric, it is time to set the dye so it stays put for ever. I measure about 350g of soda ash and tip it into a bucket of hot water. This is enough soda ash to do the job with the amount of water I use. The amount of dye you need is a function of the weight of the dry stuff, the amount of soda ash you need is a function of how much water you are using.
11. VERY IMPORTANT. Add dry soda ash to a bucket of water. Don't you dare do it the other way around. Adding water to dry soda ash makes it explode. You seriously don't want this stuff exploding in your house, and especially you don't want it expoding in your face. JUST DON'T DO IT OK???
12. Stick your gloved hand into the bucket and swish the soda ash around until it is all dissolved. If you skip this part then you will likely get blobby results in your dyeing. If that is what you are after, go for your life. But for nice smooth dyeing, make sure you dissolve it all.
13. Move the stuff to one side of the washer. Slowly and carefully tip the soda ash solution into the other side of the washer. Some people take 15 minutes to do this, I take about 15 seconds and it works for me.
14. Set the washer to agitate for about 10 minutes. This is the "keeping the stuff moving around and keeping it evenly wet so that the fixative can do its thing for a very even dye job" part of the process. If the stuff is unevenly wet, the dye job will be uneven. Been there, done that, ruined the t shirt.
15. Since mostly I like to dye nice rich colours, I like to leave my stuff in the soda ash bath for about an hour or longer. I agitate it for about 10 minutes, and rest it for about 5 minutes, repeat till the hour is up. Once again, if the stuff is tangly, I untangle it regularly. Of course I wear gloves, I don't want alkali solution all over my lily white hands, and I don't want to look like I have been finger painting for the next three days.
16. If you are doing this bit by hand, keep it moving the whole time. Very labour intensive. I used to do it this way and got some good results from hard work, and some bad results from taking too many breaks and using a trough that was too shallow.
    
17. Once the soda ash has done its thing, I let all the solution out of the machine.
    
18. Squeeze as much dye out of the stuff as you can, then put it in the spin tub of the machine. Spin that bugger out till there are no more drips coming out of the hose.
19. Put the stuff back into the washing tub, and put a couple of buckets of warm water into the tub. Agitate it to rinse it for a few minutes, then let the water out. Spin it out. Repeat until the water is clear. Takes ages. Very boring. Very necessary.
20. When the stuff is well rinsed, I put it in a bucket with hot water and a splash of synthrapol. This takes most of the loose dye out of the stuff. Leave it there for at least 20 minutes, overnight if you can, 2 days if you forget it is there and you get busy with life.
21. Repeat steps 18 and 19.
22. Put the stuff through a warm wash with an extra rinse in the washing washing machine (not the dyeing washing machine) with normal washing powder (we use Aware). For really dark colours repeat this step a few times.
23. Done! Dry your stuff and enjoy it.
    

* stuff = fabric, clothing, carriers, slings, fibre etc and so on. These instructions are for stuff made from cellulose fibres such as cotton, linen, hemp etc.